O\u011flum Ozan\u2019\u0131n iste\u011fi \u00fczerine Kurban Bayram\u0131 ve Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 St. Petersburg\u2019da ailece birlikte kutlamaya karar verdik. Ben ve e\u015fim 20 Aral\u0131k\u2019ta \u0130stanbul\u2019dan, Utku da Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019dan \u0130stanbul\u2019a gelip 24 Aral\u0131k\u2019ta St. Petersburg\u2019a hareket edecek \u015fekilde gerekli vize ve u\u00e7ak biletlerini ayarlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
20 Aral\u0131k 2007\u2019de Kurban Bayram\u0131 sabah\u0131 inanlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu Bayram Namaz\u0131\u2019n\u0131 k\u0131larken; ben ve e\u015fim, ufak bir kahvalt\u0131 yaparak Bayram Namaz\u0131 daha bitmeden, sokaklar tenhayken bir taksi ayarlay\u0131p havaalan\u0131n\u0131n yolunu tuttuk. Bagaj ve bilet i\u015flemlerini sorunsuz hallettikten sonra, saat 12.15\u2019te Rus Havayollar\u0131na ait bir u\u00e7akla 15 dakika gecikmeli olarak St. Petersburg\u2019a havaland\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rus Havayollar\u0131na g\u00f6re T\u00fcrk Hava Yollar\u0131 bir ad\u0131m \u00f6nde. \u00d6rne\u011fin: Yurtd\u0131\u015f\u0131 ve yurti\u00e7i u\u00e7u\u015flar\u0131nda THY g\u00f6revlileri T\u00fcrk\u00e7enin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda \u0130ngilizce (Rusya yolculuklar\u0131nda ise ayr\u0131ca Rus\u00e7a) konu\u015fup a\u00e7\u0131klamalarda bulunurken, Rus Havayollar\u0131 g\u00f6revlileri sadece Rus\u00e7a konu\u015fuyorlar. THY\u2019na ait u\u00e7aklarda, u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n tavanlar\u0131nda bir\u00e7ok yerde ekran var ve bu ekranlarda u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131, h\u0131z\u0131, y\u00fcksekli\u011fi, d\u0131\u015f ortam s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131, saatin ka\u00e7 oldu\u011fu, var\u0131\u015f saati vs. yaz\u0131l\u0131yor. Rus Havayollar\u0131na ait u\u00e7aklarda ekran mekran yok, ancak hizmet ve ikramlar ise kusursuzdu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
U\u00e7akta yan\u0131mdaki biti\u015fik koltukta M\u00fcjdat Bey diye biri vard\u0131. \u0130stanbul \u00dcniversitesi T\u0131p Fak\u00fcltesi\u2019nden emekli bir profes\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f. St. Petersburg\u2019a davet edildi\u011fi bir seminerde fizik tedavisi konusunda tebli\u011f sunacakm\u0131\u015f. Sa\u011fl\u0131k, bilim, K\u00fcrt sorunu, Irak ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki siyasi durum \u00fczerine, fazla ayr\u0131nt\u0131lara girmeden sohbetlerimiz oldu. Sol-Kemalist bir anlay\u0131\u015fa, karamsar bir ruh haline sahipti. D\u00fcnyadaki ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki geli\u015fmelerden rahats\u0131zd\u0131. Ayd\u0131n \u015fa\u015fk\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015f\u0131yordu. Ya\u015fl\u0131 ve \u015feker hastas\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in bir\u00e7ok konuda kendisine yard\u0131mc\u0131 oldum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
U\u00e7ak g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcnde hep beyaz bulutlar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde u\u00e7tu. Hi\u00e7bir yerde kara par\u00e7as\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnmedi. Beyaz bulutlar alt\u0131m\u0131zda k\u00fcme k\u00fcmeydi. Sevgi bulutlar\u0131n ihti\u015fam\u0131na bak\u0131p: \u201cSanki karlar\u0131 k\u00fcremi\u015fler, k\u00fcremi\u015fler atm\u0131\u015flar\u201d diye bulutlar\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc bir g\u00fczel tan\u0131mlad\u0131. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 3,5 saat sonra St. Petersburg\u2019a vard\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Havaalan\u0131nda bizi Ozan ve e\u015fi Galina kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131. Sar\u0131ld\u0131k, \u00f6p\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck, kokla\u015ft\u0131k ve kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 bayramlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 kutlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Havaalan\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda hava \u00e7ok so\u011fuktu, s\u0131cakl\u0131k eksi 2 0C\u2019yd\u0131. E\u015fyalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 taksiye atar atmaz evin yolunu tuttuk.<\/p>\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-1.jpg\")
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\nBaba-O\u011ful \u0130n\u015faat \u015fantiyesinde\u2026 21 Aral\u0131k 2007<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg\u2019da 20 g\u00fcn kald\u0131m. Kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m s\u00fcre i\u00e7erisinde, hem hava \u00e7ok so\u011fuk oldu\u011fundan, hem de yabanc\u0131 dil bilmedi\u011fimden, dahas\u0131 Ozan ve Galina\u2019n\u0131n s\u00fcrekli \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmas\u0131 nedeniyle rehber bulamad\u0131\u011f\u0131mdan \u00e7o\u011funlukla evde oturdum, k\u0131sa mesafeli y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fler yapt\u0131m, kitap okudum ve dinlendim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Daha \u00f6nce Nisan 2006\u2019da St. Petersburg\u2019a 12 g\u00fcnl\u00fck bir gezim olmu\u015ftu. O gezimde baya\u011f\u0131 gezmi\u015ftim. Bu nedenle, bu gezimde fazla merak ve istek duymad\u0131m. Ama yine de baz\u0131 yerleri gezdim ve baz\u0131 g\u00f6zlemlere tan\u0131k oldum. Ki\u015fisel ve de s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 olsa dahi gezimle ilgili izlenimlerimi yazmam ve okuyucular\u0131mla payla\u015fman\u0131n yararl\u0131 olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg\u2019da Kurban Bayram\u0131<\/strong> Bayram\u0131n ikinci g\u00fcn\u00fc sabah, ben ve Ozan birlikte \u015fantiyeye gittik. \u015eantiyede Tacik, \u00d6zbek ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmaya gelmi\u015f bir k\u0131s\u0131m i\u015f\u00e7ilerle bayramla\u015ft\u0131m. \u00d6\u011flene do\u011fru i\u015fe yaramaz keresteleri, k\u00fct\u00fckleri mazotla tutu\u015fturup g\u00fczel bir ate\u015f yakt\u0131k. Burhan Kalfa in\u015faat demirlerinden g\u00fczel bir tezg\u00e2h yapt\u0131. Ozan\u2019lar\u0131n Bayram\u2019\u0131n birinci g\u00fcn\u00fc kestirdi\u011fi kurban\u0131n terbiye edilmi\u015f etleri getirildi. Cevat Kalfa etleri \u015fi\u015flere ge\u00e7irdi ve pi\u015firmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Ben, ate\u015fin yak\u0131lmas\u0131nda ve etlerin pi\u015firilmesinde sadece fikr\u00ee y\u00f6nden yard\u0131mc\u0131 oldum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Etler pi\u015fince, \u00f6nce \u00d6zbek ve Tacik i\u015f\u00e7ilere et, ekmek, salata, kola servisi yap\u0131ld\u0131. \u00d6zbek ve Tacikler servisleri kap\u0131nca barakalar\u0131n yolunu tuttular. Sonra ben, Ozan, Cevat Kalfa, Burhan Kalfa, \u0130\u015f\u00e7i Erdal ate\u015f ba\u015f\u0131nda karn\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 doyurduk: K\u0131smette Rusya\u2019da kurban eti yemek de varm\u0131\u015f!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ozan\u2019\u0131n anlat\u0131mlar\u0131na g\u00f6re, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den gelip St. Petersburg\u2019da veya Rusya\u2019da i\u015f alan\/i\u015f yapan i\u015fyerlerinde genellikle kurban kesilmekte ve bayramla\u015fmalar yap\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Rusya\u2019daki M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar ve \u00e7e\u015fitli T\u00fcrk\u00ee cumhuriyetlerinden gelenler de kendi aralar\u0131nda bir araya gelip bayramla\u015fmaktalar.<\/p>\n\n\n Cevat Kalfa, M. \u00dcz\u00fclmez, Burhan Kalfa, \u0130\u015f\u00e7i Erdal: \u015eantiyede kurban etinin pi\u015firilmesi. 21 Aral\u0131k 2007<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg\u2019da M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar bayram namaz\u0131n\u0131 camilerde kalabal\u0131k bir \u015fekilde k\u0131lm\u0131\u015flar. \u00d6rne\u011fin St. Petersburg\u2019un en g\u00fczel tarihi camilerinden olan Tatarskiy veya di\u011fer ad\u0131yla Saint Petersburg Camisi\u2019nde caminin i\u00e7i yeterli gelmedi\u011finden bayram namaz\u0131 k\u0131lan cemaat caddelere ta\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Bu bilgiyi Petersburg\u2019da yerel yay\u0131nlanan ve garlarda, metrolarda, marketlerde bedava da\u011f\u0131t\u0131lan 21 Aral\u0131k 2007 tarihli Moy Rayon (Benim B\u00f6lgem) isimli gazetenin \u201cM\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar Kurban Bayram\u0131n\u0131 Kutlad\u0131\u201d ba\u015fl\u0131kl\u0131 haberinden \u00f6\u011frendim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Moy Rayon, Tatarskiy Camisi\u2019nde bayram namaz\u0131 k\u0131lan cemaatle ilgili yay\u0131nlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 foto\u011fraf\u0131n alt\u0131nda, Ozan\u2019\u0131n \u00e7evrisiyle; k\u0131saca, \u015funlar\u0131 yaz\u0131yordu: \u201cRusya\u2019n\u0131n Kurban Bayram\u0131. Tatar Camisi\u2019nde birka\u00e7 ki\u015fi topland\u0131. \u0130\u00e7inde, kap\u0131s\u0131nda ve hatta asfalt\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde namaz k\u0131ld\u0131lar.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n Moy Rayon gazetesinin haber ve foto\u011fraf\u0131 -21 Aral\u0131k 2007<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Bayram\u0131n \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc g\u00fcn\u00fc ben, Sevgi, Galina ve Ozan\u2019\u0131n i\u015f arkada\u015f\u0131 Temel Bey\u2019in e\u015fi Luda hep birlikte al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fe \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. IKEA\/ A\u015fan\u2019a gittik. Al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezinin kentin biraz d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda olmas\u0131 nedeniyle merkezi yerlerden \u00fccretsiz servis ara\u00e7lar\u0131 ula\u015f\u0131m\u0131 sa\u011fl\u0131yor. Ozan, bu al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezinin yap\u0131m\u0131 esnas\u0131nda bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn \u015fantiye \u015fefli\u011fini yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Nisan 2006\u2019daki Petersburg\u2019a ilk geli\u015fimde, hen\u00fcz in\u015faat halindeydi. Ozan\u2019la birlikte \u015fantiyeyi gezmi\u015ftik. \u015eimdi Petersburg\u2019un en modern al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezlerinden biri olarak hizmet vermektedir. Yabanc\u0131 diyarlarda insan\u0131n kendi evlad\u0131n\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 eseri, yap\u0131y\u0131 bitmi\u015f haliyle g\u00f6rmesi, o yap\u0131 i\u00e7inde insanlar\u0131n c\u0131v\u0131l c\u0131v\u0131l al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f yapmas\u0131n\u0131 seyretmesi tarifsiz g\u00fczel bir duygu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg\u2019da bu al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezi gibi onlarca al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezi a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f: Metro, Carousel, Sezon, Media Market gibi\u2026 Anlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z Petersburg, g\u0131dadan tekstile, kozmetikten dijital \u00fcr\u00fcnlere kadar bir\u00e7ok uluslararas\u0131 firma ve markan\u0131n istilas\u0131na u\u011fram\u0131\u015f; sanki 80 k\u00fcsur y\u0131l sosyalizmle y\u00f6netilmemi\u015f gibi. Uzay ve okyanusun derinli\u011fine gemi yollayan ama vatanda\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n maydanoz, \u00e7iklet, ti\u015f\u00f6rt, \u00e7orap, \u00e7ikolata gibi en basit t\u00fcketim ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 dahi g\u00f6rmezlikten gelen, kar\u015f\u0131layamayan bir y\u00f6netimin tarih olmas\u0131 ve sonras\u0131nda ise buralarda \u00e7ok say\u0131da uluslararas\u0131 firmalar\u0131n pe\u015f pe\u015fe a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131 fazla \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 de\u011fil. Neyse\u2026 Hatunlar al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f yaparken ben al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezinin i\u00e7inde bulunan Kafe Haus\u2019ta oturup kahve ve sigaram\u0131 i\u00e7tim, gezi izlenimlerimle ilgili notlar\u0131m\u0131 ald\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezinde genelde hali vakti yerinde, modern giyimli han\u0131mlar, gen\u00e7ler ve \u00e7ocuklar yo\u011funluktayd\u0131. \u0130\u00e7indeki buz pistinde k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00e7ocuklar bale g\u00f6sterisi yap\u0131yorlard\u0131. Oturdu\u011fum Kafe\u2019den birazda onlar\u0131 izledim: Harikayd\u0131lar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Noel<\/strong> T\u00f6ren konvoyu \u00e7ok uzundu. Beyaz at\u0131n \u00fczerindeki Noel Baba\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde palya\u00e7o k\u0131yafetli bir bando tak\u0131m\u0131, arkas\u0131nda s\u00fctbeyaz\u0131 giysiler giyinmi\u015f \u00f6zel k\u0131yafetli melek g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcml\u00fc erkek \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 ve peri k\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcnde k\u0131z \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 vard\u0131. \u00c7ocuklar\u0131n arkas\u0131nda tren katar\u0131 \u015feklinde d\u00f6\u015fenmi\u015f ve desenlenmi\u015f bez veya mu\u015fambadan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, i\u00e7ine yerle\u015ftirilen \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n veya gen\u00e7lerin hareketiyle ilerleyen bir konvoy vard\u0131. Tren katar\u0131 gibi yap\u0131lan bu \u015feyin alt\u0131nda hareket ettirici gen\u00e7lerin, \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n sadece ayaklar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyordu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n T\u00f6ren esnas\u0131nda cadde tamamen trafi\u011fe kapat\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Kentte yap\u0131lan \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131rmadan daha fazla, bu cadde \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f gibi geldi bana. Cadde \u00fczerindeki tarih\u00ee yap\u0131lar, binalar, ma\u011fazalar, i\u015fyerleri \u0131\u015f\u0131klarla s\u00fcslenmi\u015fti: Kent, \u201c\u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131 kent\u201d g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcndeydi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n T\u00f6ren s\u0131ras\u0131nda bir a\u015fa\u011f\u0131, bir yukar\u0131 gezindik, bir iki al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f ma\u011fazas\u0131na girip vitrinleri seyrettik. Ma\u011fazalar\u0131n birinde canl\u0131 bir klasik m\u00fczik konseri vard\u0131: Bizler izlemeyip gezmeyi tercih ettik.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Noel bir gelenek, daha \u00e7ok tatil havas\u0131nda ge\u00e7iyor. Bana anlat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131na g\u00f6re genellikle Noel ak\u015fam\u0131 en ya\u015fl\u0131 ana-baba veya nine-dedenin ya da sevilen birinin evinde toplan\u0131l\u0131yor; ya da bir yerlere gidiliyor. Daha \u00f6nceden al\u0131nan\/ haz\u0131rlanan hediye paketleri kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 veriliyor. Birlikte yenilen g\u00fczel yemekler, i\u00e7ilen \u015farap ve votkalar, yap\u0131lan sohbetler din\u00ee havadan \u00e7ok bir \u015fenlik, bir e\u011flence havas\u0131nda ge\u00e7iyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bizde \u00e7ok ki\u015fi, dinlisi-dinsizi, okumu\u015fu-okumam\u0131\u015f\u0131 Noel ile Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmaktad\u0131r. Her ikisinin de ayn\u0131 \u015fey oldu\u011funu, 31 Aral\u0131\u011f\u0131 1 Oca\u011fa ba\u011flayan g\u00fcn\u00fcn \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n do\u011fum g\u00fcn\u00fc oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorlar. Bu do\u011fru de\u011fil: \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n do\u011fumu, Katolik ve Protestanlara g\u00f6re 24 Aral\u0131k, Rus Ortodokslara ve Gregoryenlere g\u00f6re ise 6 Ocakt\u0131r. Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 ise, ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131 insanlar\u0131n \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc ve say\u0131larla D\u00fcnya\u2019n\u0131n Ay, G\u00fcne\u015f ve kendi etraf\u0131nda d\u00f6nmesini hesaplayarak olu\u015fturduklar\u0131 bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc sistemi olan milad\u00ee takvimin ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 g\u00fcn\u00fcd\u00fcr.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Proletarya Diktat\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Park\u0131<\/strong> Utku gelince, k\u0131t Rus\u00e7as\u0131 ve biraz iyi denecek kadar \u0130ngilizcesi olmas\u0131 nedeniyle rehberimiz oldu: 25 Aral\u0131k 2007 tarihinde ben ve Sevgi\u2019yi, yani annesi ve babas\u0131n\u0131 Nevski Caddesi\u2019ne g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc. Birlikte Nevski Caddesi\u2019nde ve bu cadde yak\u0131n\u0131ndaki tarih\u00ee mek\u00e2nlarda gezip biraz tur att\u0131k. Sonra Proletarya Diktat\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Park\u0131\u2019n\u0131, Smolny Katedrali\u2019ni\/ Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019n\u00fc, St. Michael \u015eatosu\u2019nu vs. gezdik.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bu gezdi\u011fimiz yerlerle ilgili g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerimi, anlat\u0131lanlar\u0131 ve kaynaklardan yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m \u0130ngilizce \u00e7evrilerin \u00f6zetini anlataca\u011f\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Gezmelerimiz planl\u0131 de\u011fildi, ama rastgele gezmenin yan\u0131nda bazen de bir yerleri hedefleyip \u00f6yle geziyorduk. Bu gezilerimizin birinde, Utku; \u201cSizi Smolny Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019na g\u00f6t\u00fcreyim. \u00d6nceki geli\u015fimde ben biraz gezmi\u015ftim ama sizin g\u00f6rmedi\u011finiz bir yer. \u00c7ok g\u00fczel bir yap\u0131\u201d deyince, \u201cTamam\u201d dedik ve 25 Aral\u0131k 2007 g\u00fcn\u00fc Smolny\u2019in yolunu tuttuk.<\/p>\n\n\n Proletarya Diktat\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Park\u0131\u2019ndaki Friedrich Engels\u2019in b\u00fcst\u00fc<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Smolny Katedrali\u2019ne giderken, Utku, Katedralin hemen biti\u015fi\u011finde bulunan bir park\u0131n giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerindeki Rus\u00e7a yaz\u0131y\u0131 bana g\u00f6stererek: \u201cBaba, bak burada ne yaz\u0131yor? Buras\u0131, Proletarya Diktat\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Park\u0131. Bak, yan taraf\u0131nda da Karl Marx\u2019\u0131n \u2018B\u00fct\u00fcn \u00dclkelerin \u0130\u015f\u00e7ileri Birle\u015fin!\u2019 yaz\u0131s\u0131 var\u201d deyince, ben de \u201ciyi, o zaman gelin park\u0131 gezelim\u201d dedim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Park, Smolny Katedrali\u2019nin hemen yan\u0131nda. Yan\u0131nda bir meydan ve meydan\u0131n \u00e7evresinde Valilik d\u00e2hil bir\u00e7ok devlet binas\u0131 bulunmakta. Park normal bir park, \u00f6yle pek fazla albenisi olan bir park de\u011fil. A\u011fa\u00e7l\u0131k, ortas\u0131ndan bir yol ge\u00e7iyor. Yolun ortalar\u0131nda giri\u015fte sa\u011fda Karl Marx\u2019\u0131n, solda da Friedrich Engels\u2019in b\u00fcstleri var. Bu b\u00fcstler sanki mostra\/g\u00f6stermelik olsun diye b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f; benim gibi turistler, Sovyet d\u00f6neminden kalan bir kal\u0131nt\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131nda, \u00f6n\u00fcnde foto\u011fraf \u00e7eksinler diye. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc kentte Sovyet d\u00f6nemini an\u0131msatacak hi\u00e7bir iz yok art\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nas\u0131l havas\u0131z bir ortamda hi\u00e7bir canl\u0131 t\u00fcr\u00fc ya\u015famazsa, diktat\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn oldu\u011fu bir yerde de demokrasi ya\u015fayamaz. Sovyetler Birli\u011fi\u2019nin \u00e7\u00f6kmesinin temel nedeni, kan\u0131mca Sovyetler Birli\u011fi\u2019nde demokrasinin olmay\u0131\u015f\u0131yd\u0131. Lenin ve Karl Kautsky aras\u0131ndaki d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnce ayr\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n temel nedeni \u201cdiktat\u00f6rl\u00fck\u201d sorunuydu. Ekim Devrimi\u2019nden sonra r\u00fczg\u00e2r Lenin\u2019den yana esince, d\u00fcnya kom\u00fcnist hareketi genel olarak Lenin\u2019in g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015flerini kabullendi. Bizler de ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde Kautsky\u2019i anlamadan Lenin\u2019i tuttuk ve Kautsky\u2019i, Lenin\u2019in bir yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmas\u0131 olan \u201cD\u00f6nek\u201dlikle su\u00e7lad\u0131k. Ama tarih Kautsky\u2019i hakl\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131! \u201cDiktat\u00f6rl\u00fck\u201d, sosyalist ya\u015fam\u0131, sosyalist \u00e7o\u011fulculu\u011fu ve sosyalist d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnceyi bo\u011fdu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Neyse\u2026 Sovyet\u2019lerden kalan bir kal\u0131nt\u0131y\u0131 da \u0130stanbul\u2019a d\u00f6nece\u011fimiz g\u00fcn, sabah saat 6\u2019da Ozan taksiyle, ben, Sevgi ve Galina\u2019y\u0131 havaalan\u0131na g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcrken g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. Havaalan\u0131na \u00e7ok az kalm\u0131\u015fken, solda \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir yap\u0131 g\u00f6z\u00fcme \u00e7arpt\u0131. Ozan\u2019a \u201cBuras\u0131 neresidir?\u201d diye sorunca, Ozan m\u0131nt\u0131ka \u015feklinde anlad\u0131 ve \u201cBuras\u0131 Lenin Bulvar\u0131\u2019d\u0131r, baba\u201d, diye yan\u0131tlad\u0131. \u201cBen binay\u0131 sormu\u015ftum o\u011flum\u201d deyince, \u201cLeninle ilgili enstit\u00fc m\u00fc, k\u00fct\u00fcphane mi, okul mu bilemiyorum. \u00d6n\u00fcnde de, bak, ayakta bir Lenin heykeli var\u201d dedi. Bak\u0131nca, karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7inde Lenin\u2019in ayakta b\u00fcy\u00fck bir heykelini g\u00f6rd\u00fcm: O kadar\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n Lenin Bulvar\u0131 \u00fczerinde bulunan Lenin heykeli<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Smolny Katedrali veya Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cK\u0131\u015fl\u0131k Saray\u2019da Kerenski Proletarya Diktat\u00f6rl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Park\u0131\u2019ndan sonra, hemen yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131ndaki an\u0131tsal g\u00fczellikte olan Smolny Katedrali\u2019ne gittik. G\u00f6revli bayanlardan (bu tip yerlerde genellikle orta ya\u015f veya orta ya\u015f\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde emekli bayanlar \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmakta) biletlerimizi ald\u0131k. Ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 100 ruble, yakla\u015f\u0131k 5 YTL. \u00f6dedik.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Katedral\u2019in i\u00e7inde klasik m\u00fczik e\u011fitimi veya provas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131yordu. Utku sandalyelerin bulundu\u011fu yeri g\u00f6stererek, \u00f6ncesinde buran\u0131n tamamen bo\u015f oldu\u011funu bir \u00f6nceki geli\u015finde katedralin i\u00e7inde b\u00fcy\u00fck bir tadilat \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmas\u0131 yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi. Bu g\u00f6rkemli bina bug\u00fcn St. Petersburg manzaras\u0131na hakim ihti\u015faml\u0131 bir Katedral olman\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra ayn\u0131 zamanda klasik m\u00fczik konserlerinin verildi\u011fi bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr merkezi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n G\u00f6revliler taraf\u0131ndan do\u011frudan kuleye y\u00f6nlendirildik. Kuleye merdiven basamaklar\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131karken, bina i\u00e7erisindeki t\u00fcm alanlarda merkezi bir yay\u0131nla \u00e7\u0131\u011fan m\u00fczi\u011fi benzerinde bir m\u00fczik \u00e7al\u0131nmaktayd\u0131. Katedralin baz\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerinin h\u00e2l\u00e2 kapal\u0131 ve tadilat\u0131n\u0131n devam etti\u011fi g\u00f6z\u00fck\u00fcyordu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Kuleye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, ak\u015fam\u00fczeriydi. G\u00fcne\u015f olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan, hava da biraz karard\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f Petersburg bir tepsi gibi g\u00f6zlerimizin \u00f6n\u00fcndeydi. Kuleye \u00e7\u0131karken biraz zorland\u0131m ama \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f Petersburg\u2019u kuleden seyretmek g\u00fczeldi. Sevgi\u2019nin say\u0131m\u0131na g\u00f6re kulenin merdivenleri 314 basamakt\u0131\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg\u2019a Nisan 2006\u2019da gitti\u011fimde Aziz \u0130zak Katedrali\u2019nin kulesine \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p Petersburg\u2019u ku\u015f bak\u0131\u015f\u0131 seyretmi\u015ftim. Petersburg\u2019u farkl\u0131 yerlerden seyretmek, hem zevkli ve hem de kenti tan\u0131mada yararl\u0131 oluyor. Smolny\u2019nin kulesinden Petersburg\u2019u seyrederken akl\u0131ma geldi: \u0130stanbul\u2019da Sultanahmet Cami\u2019sinin, Fatih Cami\u2019sinin, Yenikap\u0131 Cami\u2019sinin; Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019da Ulu Cami\u2019nin minarelerinin \u015ferefelerine \u00fccret kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerli ve yabanc\u0131 turistler \u00e7\u0131kart\u0131lamaz m\u0131? K\u00fclt\u00fcr ve Turizm Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131, Diyanet \u0130\u015fleri Ba\u015fkanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 bence bu konuda bir \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma yapmal\u0131. Minarelerin \u015ferefelerine turistleri \u00fccret kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kartmakla, hem bir gelir elde edilmi\u015f, hem turistlere hizmet verilmi\u015f, hem tarih\u00ee ve din\u00ee mek\u00e2nlar\u0131n tan\u0131t\u0131m\u0131 yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve hem de en \u00f6nemlisi k\u00fclt\u00fcrler aras\u0131, medeniyetler aras\u0131 diyaloga katk\u0131 sunulmu\u015f olunur diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum. Yabanc\u0131 \u00fclkelerde her \u0131rktan, her inan\u00e7tan insanlar kilise veya di\u011fer kutsal mek\u00e2nlar\u0131 gezmekte, kulelerinden, teraslar\u0131ndan kenti rahatl\u0131kla seyredebilmektedirler. Bizde neden olmas\u0131n? Turistler, minarelerin \u015ferefelerine \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131klar\u0131nda; \u201cGavurlar minarelere \u00e7\u0131kamaz!, M\u00fcbarek cami ve minarelerimiz kirletiliyor\u201d diye \u015fuursuz tepkiler olur mu acaba? Zannetmiyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n Smolny Katedrali Foto: Utku \u00dcz\u00fclmez<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Katedralin yan\u0131nda bulunan Smolny Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc, Rusya tarihinde \u00f6nemli rol oynayan, Palladian tarz\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir binad\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u0130smini 1764\u2019de kurulan ve enstit\u00fc yak\u0131n\u0131nda bulunan Smolny Rahibe Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019ndan alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bina, 1917 Ekim Devrimi s\u0131ras\u0131nda Lenin taraf\u0131ndan Bol\u015fevik Kararg\u00e2h\u0131 olarak se\u00e7ilmi\u015ftir. Lenin, Moskova\u2019da Kremlin\u2019e ta\u015f\u0131nana kadar h\u00fck\u00fcmeti bu binadan y\u00f6netmi\u015ftir. Lenin\u2019den sonra, buras\u0131 yerel Kom\u00fcnist Parti\u2019sinin binas\u0131 ve \u015fehir toplant\u0131lar\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan bir yer olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1927 y\u0131l\u0131nda binan\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne Lenin i\u00e7in bir an\u0131t dikilmi\u015ftir. Ben, Smolny binas\u0131n\u0131 gezerken, ne binan\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde ve ne de \u00e7evresinde bu an\u0131t\u0131 g\u00f6remedim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Son olarak, 1934\u2019te, Sovyetler Birli\u011fi Kom\u00fcnist Partisi Politb\u00fcro \u00dcyesi ve Bol\u015fevik lider Sergei Mironovi\u00e7 Kostrikov\u2019a, yani bilinen ismiyle Kirov\u2019a burada suikast yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r: Suikast sonucu Kirov \u00f6lm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. Kirov\u2019un \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc; Stalin\u2019in Sovyetler\u2019de ve Parti\u2019de ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u201ctasfiye ve b\u00fcy\u00fck temizli\u011fe\u201d bahane olu\u015fturmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1991\u2019den sonra Smolny, \u015fehir idaresinde ve belediye ba\u015fkan\u0131n\u0131n evi, 1996\u2019dan sonra valinin evi olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u015eimdiki Rusya Devlet Ba\u015fkan\u0131 Vladimir Putin, burada vali Anatoly Sobchak\u2019\u0131n idaresinde 1991 y\u0131l\u0131ndan 1996 y\u0131l\u0131na kadar \u00e7al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Michael \u015eatosu (St. Michael\u2019s Castle)<\/strong> St. Michael \u015eatosu \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck bir yap\u0131 ve bu yap\u0131n\u0131n b\u00fct\u00fcn odalar\u0131 portre galerisi olarak kullan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Gezmek i\u00e7in \u00f6nce ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 100 ruble, yakla\u015f\u0131k 5 YTL. \u00f6deyip biletlerimizi ald\u0131k. M\u00fcze, Rus Devlet M\u00fczesi\u2019ne ba\u011fl\u0131 ayr\u0131 bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm olarak hizmet vermekte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u015eato, St. Petersburg\u2019un merkezinde yer alan tarihi yap\u0131lardan biridir. Mikhailovsky \u015eatosu veya M\u00fchendislik \u015eatosu olarak da bilinmektedir. 1797-1801 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda imparator I. Paul zaman\u0131nda o d\u00f6nemin mimarlar\u0131 Vincenzo Brenna ve Vasili Bazhenov taraf\u0131ndan H\u00fck\u00fcmet Binas\u0131 olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015ftir. \u015eato; Frans\u0131z Klasikleri\u2019nden, \u0130talya R\u00f6nesans\u0131ndan ve Gotik\u2019ten esinlenilerek \u00e7ok \u00e7e\u015fitli mimari stil ve motifleri ta\u015f\u0131makta\/i\u00e7ermektedir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I.Paul, hem entrika ve komplolardan endi\u015fe duydu\u011fu i\u00e7in ve hem de kendisine suikast yap\u0131laca\u011f\u0131 korkusu y\u00fcz\u00fcnden K\u0131\u015fl\u0131k Saray\u2019da kendini g\u00fcvende hissetmez, kalmakta oldu\u011fu saray\u0131 sevmez. Bu y\u00fczden i\u00e7inde sekiz genel avlusu bulunan, bu kale gibi h\u00fck\u00fcmet binas\u0131n\u0131 in\u015fa ettirir. \u015eatonun iki taraf\u0131 Moika Nehri ve Fontanka Nehri ile \u00e7evrilidir. Di\u011fer iki taraf\u0131 da I. Paul\u2019un iste\u011fi \u00fczerine yap\u0131lan 2 adet yapay kanalla \u00e7evrilir ve b\u00f6ylece I. Paul kendisini g\u00fcvende hissedece\u011fi bir ada-\u015fato yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f olur. Yapay bir ada izlenimi yaratan bu yere sadece asma k\u00f6pr\u00fclerle ula\u015f\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u015eatonun yap\u0131m\u0131 26 \u015eubat 1797\u2019de ba\u015flay\u0131p 8 Kas\u0131m 1800\u2019de bitirilmi\u015ftir. Mart 1801 tarihine kadar i\u00e7erisinin d\u00f6\u015feme \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. (Do\u011fu Ortodoks inanc\u0131na g\u00f6re 8 Kas\u0131m 1800 tarihi Aziz Michael G\u00fcn\u00fc olarak kabul edilmektedir.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hayat\u0131n garip bir cilvesi olacak ki, I. Paul kendisini K\u0131\u015fl\u0131k Saray\u0131\u2019nda g\u00fcvende hissetmeyerek daha g\u00fcvende olaca\u011f\u0131na inan\u0131p yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fatosuna ta\u015f\u0131nd\u0131ktan sadece 40 g\u00fcn sonra, bir suikast sonucu \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcr. Anlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015fato \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne engel olamam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00d6ld\u00fcrme olay\u0131 \u015f\u00f6yle ger\u00e7ekle\u015fir: 12 Mart 1801 tarihinde General Bennigsen komutas\u0131nda g\u00f6revden al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f bir grup taraf\u0131ndan I. Paul\u2019un yatak odas\u0131na bask\u0131n d\u00fczenlenir. Suikast\u00e7\u0131lar \u00f6nce masaya do\u011fru s\u00fcr\u00fckleyip g\u00f6revinden istifa etmesi i\u00e7in imza atmaya zorlarlar. I. Paul direnince, suikast\u00e7\u0131lardan biri k\u0131l\u0131c\u0131n\u0131 Paul\u2019a saplar, daha sonra bo\u011fulup ayakalt\u0131nda \u00e7i\u011fnenerek \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcl\u00fcr.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bu olay akabinde, I. Alexander\u2019in tahta \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131, suikast\u00e7\u0131lardan biri olan Nicholas Zubov taraf\u0131ndan ilan edilir: \u00c7ar \u00d6ld\u00fc, Ya\u015fas\u0131n \u00c7ar!<\/p>\n\n\n\n I.Paul\u2019un \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonra ailesi K\u0131\u015fl\u0131k Saray\u2019a geri d\u00f6ner ve Aziz Michael \u015eatosu b\u00f6ylelikle terkedilmi\u015f olunur. Buras\u0131 daha sonra ordunun ana m\u00fchendislik okulu olarak kullan\u0131l\u0131r Nikolayevskaya M\u00fchendislik Akademisi olarak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1838-1843 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Rus yazar Fyodor Dostoyevsky askeri \u00f6\u011frencili\u011fini bu Ana M\u00fchendislik Okulu\u2019nda tamamlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1990\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda Aziz Michael \u015eatosu Rus M\u00fczesi\u2019nin bir kolu haline getirilmi\u015f, \u015fimdi portre galerisidir. \u0130\u00e7inde 17. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n sonlar\u0131ndan 20. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015flar\u0131na kadarki d\u00f6neme ait Rus \u00e7arlar\u0131n\u0131n, \u00e7ari\u00e7elerinin, asilzadelerin, aristokratlar\u0131n, se\u00e7kin askeri liderlerin ve mevki sahiplerinin \u00e7ok \u00f6zel portreleri bulunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n M\u00fczeyi gezerken bir devrimci olarak can\u0131m \u00e7ok s\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131 ve midem buland\u0131. M\u00fczede, \u00e7arl\u0131k d\u00f6neminin hanedan mensubu \u00e7ar ve \u00e7ari\u00e7elerin, prens ve prenseslerin, asilzadelerin, \u00fcniformal\u0131 askeri \u015fahsiyetlerin portre ve tablolar\u0131 sergileniyordu. Sovyet d\u00f6nemi sona erince \u015fatodan m\u00fczeye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclen bu g\u00f6rkemli yap\u0131da bunlar sanki mezarlar\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f, birer birer yerlerini alarak yeniden itibar kazanm\u0131\u015flar: \u00c7arl\u0131k hanedanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve aristokratlar 80 y\u0131l sonra olsa bile sanki sosyalizmden, Sovyetlerden intikam al\u0131yorlar!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bu portre ve tablolar\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fckten sonra, sadece t\u00fcketme arzular\u0131 olan ve hi\u00e7bir mal, hizmet, \u00fcr\u00fcn ve d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnce \u00fcretimine katk\u0131s\u0131 olmayanlar\u0131n 80 y\u0131l sonra b\u00f6ylesine itibar g\u00f6rmesine insan bozulmaz m\u0131? Sevgi ve Utku\u2019nun keyifleri ka\u00e7mas\u0131n diye onlara hi\u00e7bir \u015fey s\u00f6ylemedim: Sadece m\u00fczedeki tablolara ilgisiz kald\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Eminim, 1917\u2019de d\u00fcnyay\u0131 yerinden oynatan muhte\u015fem Ekim Devrimi \u00f6nderlerinin, devrimcilerin ve kom\u00fcnistlerin \u015fimdi kemikleri s\u0131zl\u0131yor!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131<\/strong> Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 nedeniyle al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezleri, caddeler, metro \u00e7ok kalabal\u0131kt\u0131. Al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezlerinde en \u00e7ok ilgi g\u00f6sterilen \u015feyler: votka, \u015farap, \u015fampanya, pasta, \u00e7ikolata, et \u00fcr\u00fcnleri ve meyveydi. Marketlerde en yo\u011fun bulunan sat\u0131\u015f \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc ve al\u0131nan \u015fey ise alkoll\u00fc i\u00e7eceklerdi. Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 \u00f6ncesi ve sonras\u0131nda Petersburg\u2019da havadan bile i\u00e7ki kokusu geliyordu sanki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Galina, y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 i\u00e7in bir g\u00fcn \u00f6nceden haz\u0131rl\u0131k yapt\u0131 evde. Renkli parlak toplarla, kurdelelerle oturdu\u011fumuz oday\u0131 s\u00fcsledi. Tabi, yapma olsa da ufac\u0131k bir Noel A\u011fac\u0131 unutulmad\u0131. Sonra markete gidildi. Hindi ve gerekli \u015feyler al\u0131nd\u0131. Sevgi hindiyi temizledi, malzemesini haz\u0131rlad\u0131 ve g\u00fczelce hindinin i\u00e7ini doldurdu. Ak\u015fama do\u011fru, Ozan votka, \u015farap ve meyve suyu getirdi. Ak\u015fam, Galina\u2019n\u0131n kuzeni \u0130gor ve k\u0131z arkada\u015f\u0131 Tanya geldiler. Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 e\u015f, dost ve akrabalar\u0131n bir araya gelmesi i\u00e7in iyi bir vesile. Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 nedeniyle bizler ta \u0130stanbul\u2019dan kalk\u0131p Petersburg\u2019a Ozan\u2019\u0131n; \u0130gor ve k\u0131z arkada\u015f\u0131 Tanya\u2019n\u0131n da Samara\u2019dan kalk\u0131p Galina\u2019n\u0131n yan\u0131na gelmesi bunun g\u00fczel bir \u00f6rne\u011fi diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u0130gor\u2019lar\u0131n geli\u015fiyle birlikte kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131kl\u0131 al\u0131nan veya haz\u0131rlanan hediyeler verildi. Bu hediye verme gelene\u011fi, kan\u0131mca Noel Baba\u2019dan geliyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Saat 9 gibi sofra kuruldu. \u00d6nce nar gibi k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f hindi dolmas\u0131, salata, kola, meyve suyu yenildi, i\u00e7ildi. Ard\u0131ndan votka, k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015farap, \u00e7erez ve meyveler geldi. \u0130gor ve k\u0131z arkada\u015f\u0131 \u015farap i\u00e7meye ba\u015flad\u0131lar. Ben, Ozan ve Utku votka i\u00e7meye ba\u015flad\u0131k. Sevgi\u2019yle Galina meyve suyu i\u00e7tiler. Sonra benle Ozan, \u0130gor\u2019u araya al\u0131p haydi haydi deyip votkalar\u0131 i\u00e7meye ba\u015flad\u0131k. Ne hikmetse, Rus \u00e7abuk pes etti. Sonra, Utku \u00e7ekildi. Ben ve Ozan bir-iki duble daha att\u0131k, sonra biz de geri \u00e7ekildik. Anlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z kocaman bir votka \u015fi\u015fesini bitiremedik: Votkan\u0131n boynu b\u00fck\u00fck kald\u0131!<\/p>\n\n\n 2007-Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 Gecesi: \u0130gor, Tanya, Galina, Ozan, M\u00fcsl\u00fcm, Utku<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n D\u0131\u015far\u0131s\u0131, \u00f6zelliklede Hermitage Meydan\u0131 ve \u00e7evresinin \u00e7ok kalabal\u0131k olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnerek gece d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kmad\u0131k. Noel, Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 ve \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc ard\u0131 ard\u0131na gelince, Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 gecesi sabaha kadar ve sonraki g\u00fcnlerde gece-g\u00fcnd\u00fcz havai fi\u015fek, maytap patlamalar\u0131n\u0131n ses ve \u0131\u015f\u0131k c\u00fcmb\u00fc\u015f\u00fc durmaks\u0131z\u0131n devam etti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Birlikte olmak, payla\u015fmak g\u00fczel \u015fey!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Buz Tutmu\u015f Fin K\u00f6rfezi \u00dczerinde Gezinti<\/strong> K\u00f6rfeze vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda saat 17.00\u2019yi g\u00f6steriyordu ve hava \u00e7ok so\u011fuktu. Buz \u00fczerinde, di\u011fer gezinenlerden cesaret alarak bizler de gezindik. Sonra Ozan\u2019\u0131n arkada\u015f\u0131 Temel Eslen ve e\u015fi Luda geldiler. Bira ve sarma dolmas\u0131 getirmi\u015flerdi. Onlarla biraz konu\u015ftuktan sonra ben, hem buz \u00fczerinde gezerken d\u00fc\u015ferim diye korktu\u011fumdan, hem de \u00e7ok \u00fc\u015f\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmden 10-15 dakika sonra gidip araban\u0131n i\u00e7inde s\u0131cakta oturmaya ba\u015flad\u0131m. Yakla\u015f\u0131k yar\u0131m saat sonra bizimkiler gelince evin yolunu tuttuk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Gezim esnas\u0131nda Petersburg\u2019da havalar \u00e7ok so\u011fuktu. Petersburg\u2019da t\u00fcm kanallar, nehirler buz tutmu\u015ftu, ama benim i\u00e7in \u00f6nemli olan bir k\u00f6rfezin, daha do\u011frusu bir denizin buz tutmu\u015f halini ilk defa g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f olmamd\u0131, do\u011fan\u0131n sundu\u011fu g\u00fczel bir manzarayla kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya olmamd\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Do\u011fan\u0131n de\u011fi\u015fik yerlerde \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 g\u00fczelliklerde harikalar yaratmas\u0131na tan\u0131k olmak g\u00fczel bir \u015fey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc<\/strong> Neva nehri k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bulunan Denizcilik M\u00fczesi\u2019nin \u00f6n y\u00fcz\u00fc<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n 6 Ocak, Rus Ortodokslar\u0131n kutsal g\u00fcn\u00fcd\u00fcr: \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc olarak kutluyorlar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Rusya\u2019da 24 Aral\u0131ktan 9 Oca\u011fa kadar tatil yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Noel, Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 ve \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc birle\u015fince insanlar i\u00e7in g\u00fczel bir tatil f\u0131rsat\u0131 do\u011fuyor. Yeme i\u00e7me, e\u011flenme, gezi, akraba ziyaretleri yap\u0131lanlar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda geliyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg\u2019da \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc\u2019ne denk geldim ama bir iki TV kanal\u0131n\u0131n bizdeki canl\u0131 Mevlit yay\u0131nlar\u0131 gibi kiliselerde yap\u0131lan t\u00f6renleri veri\u015finin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda pek \u00f6nemli bir \u015fey g\u00f6remedim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran Balesi<\/strong> Baleye 4 Ocak 2008 g\u00fcn\u00fc gittik. Sa\u011f olsun Galina bizi g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc. Ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131 300 ruble, yakla\u015f\u0131k 15 YTL. \u00f6dedik.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bale, Marinsky Tiyatrosu\u2019nda oynuyordu. Tiyatro binas\u0131 bir saray yavrusu gibi \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck ve g\u00f6rkemliydi. Da\u011f\u0131t\u0131lan Rus\u00e7a bilgi notlar\u0131na g\u00f6re tiyatronun 225. sezonuymu\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tiyatroda sahnenin oldu\u011fu k\u0131sm\u0131n U \u015feklinde 1 salonu ve odac\u0131klardan olu\u015fan 5 kat balkonu vard\u0131. Geni\u015f sahne, harika \u0131\u015f\u0131kland\u0131rma ve m\u00fckemmel sahne dekoru g\u00f6z dolduruyordu. Sahnenin \u00f6n\u00fcnde bulunan yakla\u015f\u0131k 100 ki\u015filik bir topluluk \u00e7e\u015fitli m\u00fczik aletleriyle bale ba\u015flamadan ve bale s\u00fcresince \u00c7aykovsi\u2019nin eserlerini \u00e7ald\u0131lar. Tavan, duvarlar, kolonlar, kap\u0131 ve pencere pervazlar\u0131, balkon \u00f6nleri, sahne alt\u0131n yald\u0131zlarla, tablolarla, desenlerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015f, \u0131\u015f\u0131kla bezenmi\u015fti. Tam bir antika g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc vard\u0131. Ah\u015fap sandalyeler\/koltuklar havay\u0131 bozmas\u0131n diye de\u011fi\u015ftirilmedi\u011fi i\u00e7in konforu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fckt\u00fc. U \u015feklindeki salon ve b\u00fct\u00fcn katlardaki balkonlar doluydu. \u0130zleyiciler aras\u0131nda \u00e7ocuklar, gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar, delikanl\u0131lar, orta ya\u015f ve \u00fczeri bay ve bayanlar herkes vard\u0131: \u00c7o\u011funluk \u00e7ocuk ve gen\u00e7lerdeydi. Oyun 2,5 saat s\u00fcrd\u00fc. Bale k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcm olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in, oyundaki fig\u00fcr, hareket ve \u0131\u015f\u0131klardan pek fazla anlam \u00e7\u0131kartamad\u0131m. Oyunun i\u00e7eri\u011fine dair hi\u00e7bir \u00f6n bilgi alamadan izlemeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. \u00d6yle ki oyunun T\u00fcrk\u00e7e ismini dahi bilmiyorduk. Galina Rus\u00e7a ismini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor ama Ozan a\u00e7\u0131klayam\u0131yordu. Hal b\u00f6yle olunca seyir esnas\u0131nda oyunun ne anlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 pek fazla anlayamad\u0131k. Oyunlarda konu\u015fma yoktu. Sadece m\u00fczik, \u0131\u015f\u0131k, bale yapan oyuncular ve sahne dekorlar\u0131 vard\u0131. Konu\u015fman\u0131n olmamas\u0131, bizim \u00e7ok i\u015fimize geldi. Hem konu\u015fma olsayd\u0131 da ne anlayacakt\u0131k ki? Oyunu izlerken izledi\u011fimiz oyunun F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran Balesi oldu\u011funu ke\u015ffettim ve sevindim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00dc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc perdede sahnede ya\u015fl\u0131 bir \u0130sl\u00e2m dervi\u015fi oturmu\u015f arbana \u00e7al\u0131yordu. Suf\u00ee m\u00fczi\u011fi benzeri bir m\u00fczi\u011fin e\u015fli\u011finde uzun \u00f6r\u00fck sa\u00e7l\u0131 5 g\u00fczel gen\u00e7 k\u0131z dans ettiler. \u0130lgimi \u00e7eken \u015feylerden biri bu oldu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran sadece g\u00f6rsel olarak de\u011fil, bence her y\u00f6n\u00fcyle tam bir ziyafetti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran balesi hakk\u0131nda k\u0131sa baz\u0131 bilgiler<\/em> F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran Balesi, Rus besteci \u00c7aykovski\u2019nin 1891\u2019de besteledi\u011fi bir baledir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Alman k\u0131z Clara Stahlbaum\u2019un yeni y\u0131l hediyesi olarak ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran oyunca\u011f\u0131 ile ilgili r\u00fcyalar\u0131n\u0131 konu alan b\u00fcy\u00fc-masal tarz\u0131 bir eserdir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bale, yeni y\u0131l kutlamalar\u0131 ile \u00f6zde\u015fle\u015fmi\u015f ve pek \u00e7ok bale toplulu\u011fu taraf\u0131ndan y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131nda sahnelenmesi gelenekselle\u015fmi\u015f d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en \u00e7ok sahnelenen bale eserlerinden biridir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Balenin yaz\u0131l\u0131\u015f \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fc<\/em> 1890\u2019larda St. Petersburg\u2019daki Kraliyet Tiyatrolar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n y\u00f6netmeni olan Ivan Vsevolojsky, Dumas\u2019n\u0131n F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn iyi bir bale eseri olabilece\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f ve Kraliyet Tiyatrosu\u2019nun bale y\u00f6netmeni Frans\u0131z as\u0131ll\u0131 \u00fcnl\u00fc koreograf Marius Petipa\u2019dan bir bale yaratmas\u0131n\u0131 istemi\u015ftir. Ve Petipa haz\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 detayl\u0131 librettoyu besteci \u00c7aykovski\u2019ye vermi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u00c7aykovski, konuyu be\u011fenmemesine ra\u011fmen g\u00f6revi kabul etmi\u015f, ama eseri yaratacak ilham\u0131 bir t\u00fcrl\u00fc yakalayamam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Tam bu s\u0131rada New York Carnegie Hall\u2019in a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015f temsiline orkestra \u015fefi olarak davet edilir. New York\u2019a giderken eserin Birinci Sahne\u2019nin taslaklar\u0131n\u0131 da yan\u0131nda g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcr. Yolculuk s\u0131ras\u0131nda konaklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Paris\u2019te yeni icat edilmi\u015f olan \u00e7elesta adl\u0131 enstr\u00fcman\u0131n sesini ilk kez duyar. \u0130lahi bir \u00e7\u0131nlama sesi \u00e7\u0131karan ve klavyeli vurmal\u0131 bir m\u00fczik aleti olan \u00e7elesta, \u00c7aykovski\u2019ye \u015eeker Perisi\u2019nin m\u00fczi\u011fi i\u00e7in ilham verir ve eseri besteler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ve F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran Balesi ilk kez 1892\u2019de St. Petersburg Marinsky Tiyatrosu\u2019nda sahnelenir. St. Petersburg\u2019un d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda ise ilk \u00f6nce 1934\u2019te Londra\u2019da sahnelenmi\u015ftir. Ba\u015far\u0131y\u0131 yakalamas\u0131 ancak 1950\u2019lerde ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmi\u015ftir. O zamandan beri d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en \u00e7ok sahnelenen bale eserlerinden birisidir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran\u2019\u0131n T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de ilk sahneleni\u015fi Devlet Opera ve Balesi Genel M\u00fcd\u00fcrl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc taraf\u0131ndan 1968-1969 sezonunda Ankara\u2019da ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirilmi\u015ftir. Baleyi Dame Ninette de Valois sahneye koymu\u015f, koreografik d\u00fczenlemesini Richard Glasstone, Ivanov\u2019un \u00f6zg\u00fcn koreografisine ba\u011fl\u0131 kalarak yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Balenin konusu<\/em> Marinsky Tiyatrosu\u2019nun d\u0131\u015ftan g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Gece yar\u0131s\u0131, garip \u015feyler olmaya ba\u015flar. Clara fare sesi duyarak uyan\u0131r. Oda, Fareler Kral\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6nderli\u011findeki bir fare ordusu ile dolar. Clara ka\u00e7mak ister, ancak dev fareler onu durdurur. \u00d6te yandan odadaki oyuncaklar da canlan\u0131r. F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran komutas\u0131ndaki kur\u015fun askerler Fareler Kral\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ordusu ile sava\u015f\u0131r ve \u00f6l\u00fcr. Clara\u2019n\u0131n terli\u011fini Fareler Kral\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131na atmas\u0131yla kral \u00f6l\u00fcr ve komutanlar\u0131n\u0131n cesedini ta\u015f\u0131yan fareler oday\u0131 terk eder. Clara\u2019n\u0131n F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran i\u00e7in d\u00f6kt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc g\u00f6zya\u015flar\u0131 onu canland\u0131r\u0131r. Bir prense d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fen F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran, Clara\u2019y\u0131 kendi \u00fclkesi Karlar \u00dclkesine g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcr.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Karlar \u00dclkesi\u2019nde Prens ve Clara, kar tanelerinin dans\u0131 ile kar\u015f\u0131lan\u0131rlar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Clara, sonra prensin e\u015fli\u011finde \u015eekerleme \u00dclkesi\u2019ne gider. \u015eeker Perisi\u2019ne farelerle yapt\u0131klar\u0131 sava\u015f\u0131 anlat\u0131rlar. Peri, onlar\u0131 \u00f6d\u00fcllendirmek i\u00e7in kutlama danslar\u0131 sunar. Son olarak prens ile \u015eekerleme Perisi birlikte dans ederler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Clara, r\u00fcyadan uyan\u0131r ve kendisini F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran\u2019\u0131 ile beraber evlerinin salonundaki y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 a\u011fac\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131nda bulur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pu\u015fkin\u2019in D\u00fcello Yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Yer ve An\u0131s\u0131na Yap\u0131lan Park<\/strong> Park\u0131n oldu\u011fu yer eskiden kentin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda bir yermi\u015f. 1837 y\u0131l\u0131nda Pu\u015fkin ve rakibi buraya gelip d\u00fcello yapm\u0131\u015flar. Pu\u015fkin yaralanm\u0131\u015f ve sonra da ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu yara nedeniyle \u00f6lm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ruslar, Aleksandr Sergeyevi\u00e7 Pu\u015fkin\u2019e (1799-1837) olan sevgilerini g\u00f6stermek i\u00e7in, onun an\u0131s\u0131na bu park\u0131 yapm\u0131\u015flar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Yazarlar\u0131n b\u00f6ylesine kadir k\u0131ymetinin bilinmesi \u00f6vg\u00fcye de\u011fer bir olay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 2 Ocak 2008 g\u00fcn\u00fc Park\u2019a Sevgi\u2019yle y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek gittik. Park, b\u00fcy\u00fck bir park, y\u00fcksek ve kocaman kocaman a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131 var. Bir taraf\u0131ndan karayolu, bir taraf\u0131ndan demiryolu ge\u00e7iyor. Park\u0131n ortas\u0131nda Pu\u015fkin an\u0131s\u0131na dikilen bir an\u0131t var. Kiril alfabesini \u00e7\u00f6zsem de, Rus\u00e7a bilmedi\u011fim i\u00e7in, ne an\u0131t\u0131n \u00fczerindeki yaz\u0131lardan ve ne de an\u0131t\u0131n hemen kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda bulunan mermer plaketlerin \u00fczerindeki yaz\u0131lardan Pu\u015fkin s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcn d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda hi\u00e7bir \u015fey anlamad\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n An\u0131t\u0131n yan\u0131na vard\u0131\u011f\u0131mda, an\u0131t\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde yeni b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 bir g\u00fcl vard\u0131. \u00c7evresinde aileler \u00e7ocuklar\u0131yla geziniyorlard\u0131. Bir k\u0131s\u0131m insanlar da hava so\u011fuk olmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n banklarda oturmu\u015f kitap veya gazete okuyordu.<\/p>\n\n\n Pu\u015fkin\u2019in d\u00fcello yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer ve an\u0131s\u0131na dikilen an\u0131t<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Sevgi an\u0131t\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde resmimi \u00e7ekti. Sonra bir banka oturup bir sigara yakt\u0131m. Okudu\u011fum kitaplar\u0131n\u0131, kitaplar\u0131ndaki kahramanlar\u0131, m\u00fccadelesini, politik d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesini ve en \u00f6nemlisi 1837\u2019de kar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n onurunu korumak i\u00e7in girdi\u011fi bir d\u00fcello sonucu bir Do\u011fu\u2019lu gibi \u201cerkek\u00e7e\u201d \u00f6l\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fc d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. \u0130nsan\u0131n y\u0131llarca kitaplar\u0131n\u0131 okudu\u011fu, hayran oldu\u011fu bir yabanc\u0131 yazar\u0131n an\u0131t\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda olmas\u0131, onunla sohbet edercesine konu\u015fmas\u0131 anlat\u0131lmas\u0131 zor, ama ho\u015f bir duygu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Utku\u2019nun Moskova\u2019ya Gidi\u015fi ve Tren Gar\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 4 Ocak 2008 gecesi, daha do\u011frusu 5 Ocak 2008\u2019de saat 01.50\u2019de Utku\u2019yu ben, Ozan ve Galina Nevski Tren Gar\u0131\u2019ndan Moskova\u2019ya yolculad\u0131k. Utku, davet \u00fczerine, Moskova\u2019da \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan arkada\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmeye, onlarla biraz Moskova\u2019da gezinmeye gitti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tren Gar\u0131 eski, tarihi bir yap\u0131. Petersburg i\u00e7inde de\u011fi\u015fik yerlerde 2-3 tana daha tren gar\u0131 varm\u0131\u015f. Garlar belirli demiryolu istikametlerine g\u00f6re hizmet verecek \u015fekilde konumland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Nevski\u2019deki gar, Petersburg-Moskova g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131nda seyahat edecekler i\u00e7in, bir ba\u015fka gar Petersburg-Avrupa g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131 i\u00e7in, bir ba\u015fka gar da Petersburg-Sibirya g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131 i\u00e7in hizmet vermekteymi\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg-Moskova aras\u0131 trenle yakla\u015f\u0131k 8-8,5 saat s\u00fcr\u00fcyormu\u015f. Kurban Bayram\u0131, Noel, Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131, 6 Ocak \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc gibi dini bayram ve tatillere denk geldi\u011fi i\u00e7in gar kalabal\u0131kt\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Gece saat 01.30 olmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n dikkatimi iki \u015fey \u00e7ekti: Kond\u00fckt\u00f6rlerin t\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn kad\u0131n olmas\u0131 ve gar binas\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde insanlar\u0131n el a\u00e7\u0131p dilenmesi. Kad\u0131nlar\u0131 geni\u015f \u015fekilde \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma alan\u0131nda etkin olmalar\u0131na sevindim, b\u00fct\u00fcn d\u00fcnyada el a\u00e7an insanlar\u0131n say\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n her g\u00fcn art\u0131\u015f\u0131na da bir o kadar da \u00fcz\u00fcld\u00fcm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bizde, trenlerde ben hi\u00e7 kad\u0131n kond\u00fckt\u00f6r g\u00f6rmedim. TCDD\u2019de \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan kad\u0131n kond\u00fckt\u00f6r var m\u0131 acaba? Bilmiyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Geziden K\u0131sa K\u0131sa Notlar<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Gezim \u00f6ncesi tan\u0131d\u0131k ve baz\u0131 arkada\u015flara Petersburg\u2019a gidece\u011fim dedi\u011fimde; -kad\u0131n erkek fark etmeksizin \u00e7o\u011fu ki\u015fi imal\u0131 bir bi\u00e7imde, \u201ctek mi gidiyorsun, yenge de var m\u0131<\/em>?\u201d diye sorgulad\u0131lar. G\u00fczel gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar var, g\u00f6n\u00fcl e\u011flendirebilirsin anlam\u0131nda. Alg\u0131lar m\u0131 farkl\u0131, yoksa beyinlerde farkl\u0131 bir ko\u015fullanma m\u0131 var ya da cinsel a\u00e7l\u0131\u011f\u0131n d\u0131\u015fa vurumu mu s\u00f6z konusu olan, bilemiyorum. Petersburg\u2019da tarih\u00ee ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel yerlerin g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi, gezilmesi, insan\u0131n sevdikleriyle bir arada mutlulu\u011fu payla\u015fmas\u0131 nedense hi\u00e7 akla gelmiyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hermitage Meydan\u0131 ve meydandaki buz pisti \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a027 Aral\u0131k 2007<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n K\u0131sacas\u0131, daha \u00f6nceki gezi izlenimimde yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131m gibi: Petersburg; muhte\u015fem tarih\u00ee binalar\u0131, bak\u0131ml\u0131 ve zengin m\u00fczeleri, g\u00f6rkemli kiliseleri, harika an\u0131t ve heykelleri, kanallar\u0131, nehir ve nehir \u00fczerindeki k\u00f6pr\u00fcleri, muazzam metro istasyonlar\u0131; Ekim Devrimi\u2019ndeki kahramanl\u0131klar\u0131 ve Nazi i\u015fgaline kar\u015f\u0131 direni\u015fi ile farkl\u0131 bir kent: Bence, g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011fer bir kent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n EK<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n St. Petersburg\u2019a bu gidi\u015fimde baz\u0131 i\u015flerimin olmas\u0131 nedeniyle ben erken d\u00f6nd\u00fcm. E\u015fim bir 10 g\u00fcn daha kald\u0131. E\u015fim kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu s\u00fcre i\u00e7erisinde bir i\u015fkence m\u00fczesine gitmi\u015f. M\u00fczenin ismi Leningrad Din ve Ateizm Tarihi M\u00fczesi<\/strong>imi\u015f. Kendisinin Rus\u00e7a ve Kiril Alfabesini, kendisini gezdiren Galina\u2019n\u0131n da yeteri kadar T\u00fcrk\u00e7e bilmemesi nedeniyle m\u00fcze ve m\u00fczede sergilenen \u015feyler hakk\u0131nda yeterli bilgi sahibi olamam\u0131\u015f. Ama e\u015fimin anlat\u0131m\u0131na g\u00f6re m\u00fcze ilgin\u00e7 ve \u00e7ok \u00fcrk\u00fct\u00fcc\u00fcym\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n \u00c7ivili Sandalye Kaz\u0131\u011fa Oturtma<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1981-1984 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Diyarbak\u0131r 5 Nolu Cezaevi\u2019nde \u00f6nce karde\u015fim Haydar\u2019\u0131, daha sonralar\u0131 beni ziyaret edi\u015flerinde ve benim firari d\u00f6nemimde teslim olmam i\u00e7in kendisinin rehin al\u0131n\u0131p Diyarbak\u0131r Kurto\u011flu K\u0131\u015flas\u0131\u2019nda 2 g\u00fcn \u201cmisafir<\/em>\u201d olarak kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerde \u00e7ok \u015fey g\u00f6ren ve ya\u015fayan biri olarak \u00fcrkm\u00fc\u015f. M\u00fczede g\u00f6rd\u00fckleri kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda \u015fa\u015fk\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fcp pani\u011fe kap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Sinirleri gerildi\u011finden m\u00fczedeki geziye devam edememi\u015f ve \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f. Sadece benim i\u00e7in rastgele 2 foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmi\u015f. M\u00fczede sergilenen i\u015fkence y\u00f6ntemlerini temsili olarak g\u00f6steren bu 2 foto\u011fraf\u0131 buraya alarak, Rusya\u2019da ge\u00e7mi\u015fte ya\u015fanan vah\u015fetin, zulm\u00fcn, i\u015fkencenin bir m\u00fczede sergilendi\u011fini bilmenizi istedim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bizler cesaret g\u00f6sterip Osmanl\u0131 zindanlar\u0131nda ve Cumhuriyet hapishanelerinde ya da cezaevlerinde kullan\u0131lan i\u015fkence aletlerini ve uygulanan i\u015fkence y\u00f6ntemlerini bir m\u00fczede sergileyebilme y\u00fcreklili\u011fini g\u00f6sterebilecek miyiz?<\/p>\n\n\n\n Uzun bir s\u00fcredir Diyarbak\u0131r 5 Nolu Cezaevi\u2019nin okul mu, m\u00fcze mi, an\u0131t m\u0131 olmas\u0131 tart\u0131\u015f\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Kendimizle y\u00fczle\u015fmemiz i\u00e7in Diyarbak\u0131r 5 Nolu Cezaevi eski haliyle korunarak \u201cAdalet ve \u00d6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck M\u00fczesi<\/em>\u201d olmas\u0131 gerekir. Burada i\u015fkence ara\u00e7 ve y\u00f6ntemleriyle birlikte \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclenlerin foto\u011fraflar\u0131 ve \u00f6zge\u00e7mi\u015fleri sergilenmelidir. Bu, kendimizle y\u00fczle\u015fmemizin \u00f6nemli bir ad\u0131m\u0131 olacakt\u0131r. Kendi ge\u00e7mi\u015fimizle, kendi tarihimizle hesapla\u015fabilirsek e\u011fer, kutsal olan\u0131n ne \u201cdevlet<\/em>\u201d, ne \u201cvatan<\/em>\u201d oldu\u011funu; esas kutsal olan\u0131n \u201cinsan\u0131n ya\u015fama hakk\u0131<\/em>\u201d oldu\u011funu, i\u015fkencenin \u201cinsanl\u0131k su\u00e7u<\/em>\u201d oldu\u011funu toplum olarak \u00f6\u011frenmi\u015f oluruz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ve ayr\u0131ca bu t\u00fcr m\u00fczelerin h\u00fcmanist de\u011ferlerin yerle\u015fmesine ve demokrasi k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn geli\u015fimine de katk\u0131 sa\u011flayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 11 Nisan-15 May\u0131s 2008 tarihleri aras\u0131nda Ergani Haber<\/strong> gazetesinde dizi halinde yay\u0131nland\u0131. EK<\/strong> y<\/em>az\u0131ya sonradan eklenmi\u015ftir.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Gidi\u015fO\u011flum Ozan\u2019\u0131n iste\u011fi \u00fczerine Kurban Bayram\u0131 ve Y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 St. Petersburg\u2019da ailece birlikte kutlamaya karar verdik. Ben ve e\u015fim 20 Aral\u0131k\u2019ta \u0130stanbul\u2019dan, Utku da Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019dan \u0130stanbul\u2019a gelip 24 Aral\u0131k\u2019ta St. Petersburg\u2019a hareket edecek \u015fekilde gerekli vize ve u\u00e7ak biletlerini ayarlad\u0131k. 20 Aral\u0131k 2007\u2019de Kurban Bayram\u0131 sabah\u0131 inanlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu Bayram Namaz\u0131\u2019n\u0131 k\u0131larken; ben ve e\u015fim, ufak bir kahvalt\u0131 yaparak Bayram Namaz\u0131 daha bitmeden, sokaklar tenhayken bir taksi ayarlay\u0131p havaalan\u0131n\u0131n yolunu tuttuk. Bagaj ve bilet i\u015flemlerini sorunsuz hallettikten sonra, saat 12.15\u2019te Rus Havayollar\u0131na ait bir u\u00e7akla 15 dakika gecikmeli olarak St. Petersburg\u2019a havaland\u0131k. Rus Havayollar\u0131na g\u00f6re T\u00fcrk Hava Yollar\u0131 bir ad\u0131m \u00f6nde. \u00d6rne\u011fin:<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[449,1197,3403],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6515","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-inceleme","category-kultur","category-plus"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6515","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6515"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6515\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6812,"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6515\/revisions\/6812"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6515"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6515"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6515"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
Havaalan\u0131ndan eve vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda az\u0131c\u0131k hasret giderdikten sonra valizlerimizi bo\u015fatt\u0131k, getirdi\u011fimiz hediyeleri verdik, du\u015f al\u0131p karn\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 doyurduk, \u00e7aylar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 i\u00e7tik, her \u015feye dair konu\u015ftuk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-2.jpg\")
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23 Aral\u0131k 2007\u2019de Pazar g\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fcn ak\u015fam\u0131 tesad\u00fcfen Noel Baba\u2019n\u0131n Nevsky Prospekt, yani Nevski Caddesi\u2019ndeki ge\u00e7i\u015f t\u00f6renine rastlad\u0131k. Rus Ortodoks Kilisesi \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n vaftiz edili\u015fini Protestan ve Katolikler gibi Aral\u0131\u011f\u0131n 24\u2019\u00fcnde de\u011fil, Oca\u011f\u0131n 6\u2019s\u0131nda kutlasa bile Noel Baba 23 Aral\u0131\u011f\u0131 24 Aral\u0131\u011fa ba\u011flayan g\u00fcn\u00fcn ak\u015fam\u0131nda Nevski Caddesi\u2019nden t\u00f6renle ge\u00e7ti. Yerde kar olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in, Noel Baba k\u0131zaklar yerine beyaz atlar\u0131n \u00fczerinde kente giri\u015f yapt\u0131: Cadde etraf\u0131nda birikmi\u015f kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131, seyircileri Rus\u00e7a \u201cMutlu Noeller\u201d dile\u011fiyle selamlad\u0131. Kalabal\u0131k da ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde bir a\u011f\u0131zdan \u201cMutlu Noeller\u201d deyip, hep birlikte dilekte bulundular.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Utku, 24 Aral\u0131k 2007 tarihinde \u0130stanbul\u2019dan geldi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-4.jpg\")
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Smolni\u2019de Sovyetler ve Lenin; sokakta onlar\u201d -N\u00e2z\u0131m Hikmet<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-6.jpg\")
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Binan\u0131n yap\u0131m\u0131 i\u00e7in Soylu K\u0131zlar\u0131n E\u011fitimi Derne\u011fi taraf\u0131ndan \u201c\u0130talya\u2019n\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck mimarlar\u0131n\u0131n sonuncusu\u201d Giacomo Quarenghi g\u00f6revlendirilmi\u015ftir. Yap\u0131, 1806\u20131808 tarihleri aras\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f ve Smolny Soylu K\u0131zlar Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc olarak kullan\u0131lmaya ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Rusya \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nda kad\u0131nlara y\u00f6nelik kurulan ilk e\u011fitim kurulu\u015fu olmas\u0131 sebebiyle \u00f6nemli bir yere sahiptir. Kurulu\u015fundan 1917 devrimine kadar \u0130mparatori\u00e7enin himayesinde e\u011fitim vermeyi de s\u00fcrd\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr. St. Petersburg\u2019da \u00e7ok \u00fcnl\u00fc aileler burada e\u011fitim alm\u0131\u015flard\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
27 Aral\u0131k 2007 g\u00fcn\u00fc St. Michael \u015eatosu\u2019nu ben, Sevgi ve Utku birlikte gezdik.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Bana anlat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131na g\u00f6re; do\u011fum g\u00fcnleri, noel, y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131, 6 Ocak \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc, 8 Mart D\u00fcnya Kad\u0131nlar G\u00fcn\u00fc, 1 May\u0131s Bayram\u0131, fa\u015fizme kar\u015f\u0131 kazan\u0131lan sava\u015f an\u0131s\u0131na kutlanan Zafer G\u00fcn\u00fc\u2019n\u00fc Rusya\u2019da halk \u00f6nemsemekte, g\u00fcn\u00fcn anlam ve \u00f6neminin \u00f6tesinde bir tatil olarak, bir \u015fenlik olarak kutlamaktad\u0131r. Ama en \u00e7ok do\u011fum g\u00fcnleri ve y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131na ilgi g\u00f6sterilmekteymi\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-7.jpg\")
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1 Ocak 2008\u2019de, yani yeni y\u0131l\u0131n ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fcn ak\u015fam\u0131 Ozan bizleri, Fin (Finlandiya) K\u00f6rfezi\u2019ne g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc. K\u00f6rfez donmu\u015ftu: Deniz g\u00f6z\u00fcn g\u00f6rebildi\u011fi yere kadar buz tutmu\u015ftu. Denizin, buzun ve g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn mavisi birle\u015fmi\u015f, farkl\u0131 tonda yekpare bir mavi olu\u015fturmu\u015ftu. Buzun \u00fczerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek k\u00f6rfezin i\u00e7ine vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda buzun \u00fcst\u00fcnde her ya\u015ftan insanlar geziniyor, kay\u0131yor, \u00e7ocuklar\u0131yla oynuyorlard\u0131; gen\u00e7 sevgililerin bir k\u0131sm\u0131 el ele dola\u015f\u0131rken, bir k\u0131sm\u0131 da bira veya benzeri \u015feyler i\u00e7iyorlard\u0131. Maytap ve havai fi\u015fekler at\u0131lmas\u0131yla olu\u015fan renkli \u0131\u015f\u0131klar g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcnde ahenkle dans ediyordu. Ozan\u2019\u0131n dedi\u011fine g\u00f6re \u015eubat ay\u0131nda denizin \u00fczerinde arabalar\u0131yla insanlar tur at\u0131yorlarm\u0131\u015f. \u015eubat ay\u0131nda k\u00f6rfezin\/denizin \u00fcst\u00fcndeki buz tabakas\u0131 daha da kal\u0131nla\u015f\u0131yormu\u015f yani.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
IV. y\u00fczy\u0131la kadar H\u0131ristiyan kiliseleri 6 Ocak tarihinde Hz. \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n Kutsal Do\u011fum Bayram\u0131\u2019n\u0131 kutlard\u0131. Sonralar\u0131 Roma Katolik Kilisesi, Kutsal Do\u011fum G\u00fcn\u00fc kutlamalar\u0131n\u0131 24 Aral\u0131k\u2019a \u00e7ekti. Ortodoks ve Ermeni Kiliseleri (Do\u011fu H\u0131ristiyanlar\u0131) bunu kabul etmediler. \u0130sa\u2019n\u0131n 6 Ocak\u2019ta Vaftizci Yahya taraf\u0131ndan vaftiz edilmesini ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde kutlamaya devam ettiler\/ediyorlar.<\/p>\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-8.jpg\")
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St. Petersburg gezisinde F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran Balesi\u2019ni izlemek de k\u0131smet oldu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Baleyi izledikten sonra bale ile ilgili bilgiler toplad\u0131m. Edindi\u011fim bilgileri k\u0131saca payla\u015fmak istiyorum:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
1815\u2019de Alman yazar\u0131 Ernst Theodore Amadeus Hoffmann halk \u00f6yk\u00fclerinden esinlenerek F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran ve Fareler Kral\u0131 adl\u0131 bir \u00f6yk\u00fc yazm\u0131\u015f. Sonra Frans\u0131z yazar Alexander Dumas 1844\u2019de Hoffmann\u2019\u0131n \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fcndeki karamsarl\u0131\u011f\u0131 yumu\u015fat\u0131p masal tarz\u0131nda \u00e7eviri ve uyarlamas\u0131n\u0131 yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stahlbaum ailesinin evinde yeni y\u0131l partisi verilmektedir. Clara ve erkek karde\u015fi Fritz ile anne ve babalar\u0131 dev y\u0131lba\u015f\u0131 a\u011fac\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131nda dostlar\u0131yla e\u011flenirler. Gizemli Vaftiz Baba Drosselmeyer \u00e7ocuklar i\u00e7in bir \u00e7uval dolusu oyuncakla gelir. En g\u00fczel oyuncak, Clara\u2019ya hediye edilen F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran\u2019d\u0131r. K\u0131skanan Fritz, oyunca\u011f\u0131 k\u0131rar ancak Drosselmeyer tamir eder. Parti sona erdi\u011finde aile yatmaya gider, ancak Clara F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran\u2019\u0131 g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in a\u011fac\u0131n alt\u0131na gelir: Kollar\u0131nda F\u0131nd\u0131kk\u0131ran ile uykuya dalar.<\/p>\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-9.jpg\")
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Ozan\u2019n\u0131n evine yak\u0131n bir yerde bir park vard\u0131. Bir g\u00fcn bu park\u0131n yan\u0131ndan arabayla ge\u00e7erken Galina, park\u0131n Pu\u015fkin Park\u0131 oldu\u011funu; Pu\u015fkin\u2019in d\u00fcello yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131, yaraland\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer oldu\u011funu ve an\u0131s\u0131na yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uzulmez.site\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/p-10.jpg\")
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